Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
